Q & A, and Favorite Links
A quick glance reveals only a pretty flower. You must look closer to see individual petals, leaves, stems, thorns--and deeper still for the roots that feed the plant. Each individual part stands alone, beautiful and unique unto itself, yet together they shape and define the rose---more beautiful in sum than any individual feature.
The same holds true for pet writing. Questions from cat and dog lovers fuels the writer's vision and, one hopes, results in books that address these needs. Please send me your comments and questions via the GUESTBOOK, and I'll do my best to answer-and post selected ones here, from time to time.
I hope you'll browse the Q & A section below at your leisure. Also below you'll find some of my favorite links---roses every one!---examples of some of the unique "petals" that help define the whole.
CURIOSITY answered by questions about DOGS submitted by YOU!
CURIOSITY answered by questions about CATS submitted by you!
CURIOSITY answered by questions about MISC. TOPICS submitted by YOU!
CURIOSITY answered by questions about WRITING submitted by YOU!
CURIOSITY answered by questions about DOGS submitted by YOU!
MESSAGE: Hi, Amy! I wrote to you a few months ago about our two cocker spaniel puppies. I'm happy to report that they are getting along much better now. Toby is almost 8 months and Bailey is 6 1/2 months. My question is in regards to Toby's curious "bathroom" habits. Is it normal for a dog his age to still not raise his leg to urinate? Bailey has started to and he is younger than Toby. Can this be taught? I know this sounds like a joke question, but I really do wonder about it. Thanks, Kathy
He needs a lot of exercise and I spend more than an hour each day wearing him out (wearing myself out haha) by playing fetch and other games. I am doing every thing I can to keep him challenged and healthy, but he constantly finds thing to chew, such as my log book, permit book, paper towels--anything he can get his teeth on. Thank God he has not chewed on the truck yet! It worries me that he is chewing everything in sight whenever I leave him alone to eat, shower or take care of my duties away from the truck (no more than an hour). I have tried keeping important things out of reach and have bought him every chew toy and challenge toy in the stores and have even got bitter orange but he continues to chew on things that are not fastened down. What can I do about his chewing? Sincerely, Sean
Giving him LOTS of legal chewing opportunities is the key. My personal favorites are the KONG toys that you can stuff with food (yum!) and Labs seem to love anything with food attached. You can even mush up his food with chicken broth, put the mush inside the Kong and freeze it to make a "pup-sicle" that feels good to sore gums if he's still teething.
Also, a chew toy (maybe a rawhide bone or rope toy?) that you wear most of the day in a
cket can be attractive because it smells like you. Often dogs target objects because a beloved owner handles that object and it smells like you--so create something "important" for the dog by scenting a legal chew object.
I'm afraid that some dogs actually like the flavor/scent of bitter orange or bitter apple. You have to experiment to find what works best for your pup. Some dogs really hate the smell of Vicks Vaporub and the menthol scent keeps them at bay. But as you've discovered, the best thing you can do is keep illegal objects out of reach, while providing lots of 'okay' objects -- at least 3 at a time, and alternate so the dog doesn't get bored with them. And of course, praise the dickens out of him when he chews the right thing! Good luck!
1) If he's not already doing so, turn over feeding duties to your husband. Make sure the dog sees him fill the food bowl--then have him leave the room so Maddie doesn't feel intimidated. BUT she should know that he's the one controls the dinner.
2) Continue with the treats. Have very special, stinky, irresistible ones (cat treats sometimes work great with dogs!) that Maddie only gets around your husband. Don't make her come to him...just drop them or toss so she can get them without having to come near (but again, know they come from him and only him).
3) Ask your husband NOT to make eye contact. That's very threatening to a dog.
4) Ask him to consciously raise the pitch of his voice--falsetto/baby talk--and see if that helps a bit. This isn't permanent, just to get her used to the "soft voice guy" until she knows him by sight and smell, and the normal voice won't throw her.
5) Men often are much taller than women and seem to "loom" over top of small dogs. Having him sit on the floor may help, while rolling a ball or other toy for the dog to interact from a distance. Again, play (like treats) teaches a good association with your husband...don't make the dog come to him yet; let her rule the interactions. Praise for happy tails and expressions and ignore fearful postures (any attention to fearful postures can reward it and make it continue)
6) When Maddie looks/acts stressed out...YAWN. Fake a big-ol' yawn, and do it several times. In dog language, a yawn is a "calming signal" that says, "I mean no harm."
7) Doorways are territories that can be very arousing to all dogs--makes shy/fearful ones feel threatened and dominant/aggressive dogs feel territorial. It's not surprising Maddie doesn't want to go past a fearful man through the doorway...try having your husband go OUTSIDE and hold the door open (against his body) so she has a straight shot through.
MESSAGE: I am curious about the drugs trental,misoprostol- that you talk about in your book "Pet Care in the New Century." I have tried everything for my dog's allergies including immunotherapy. Do you recommend one of these drugs over the other or try them both to see what works. My Vet has never heard of using these drugs for itching and is reluctant to give them. What can I do?? Eric
MESSAGE: Dear Amy, I have a wonderful mixed breed female 3-1/2 yrs old. I got her when she was about 4 months old. She was found (with 3 other pups) in the metro parks presumably abandoned there. Most of the pups were very fearful and extremely shy. My dog, Hanna, is still very fearful of people. It's more that shyness...she often trembles in the presence of strangers. I don't force her to allow herself to be petted, I usually just try not to make a big deal out it but I try not to let her hide from people. She gradually will make friends with people she sees regularly, especially when they give her treats. My vet thinks she was simply never socialized as a pup. She is terrific in every other respect. When she gets spooked by someone there is almost no dealing with her, she doesn't even want to look at the person or even me...she kind of goes into a "fear trance". Do you think she will get better in time? She has improved a lot since I got her. Is there some specific thing I could do to help her. Any suggestions you might have would be most appreciated. Thank You! Patty
I really like a natural herbal product called Rescue Remedy, which is one of the Bach Flower Remedies. Nobody knows exactly how these homeopathic treatment works, but in many dogs (not all, but a good percentage!), it works wonders. Bach Flower Remedies are liquids available from health food stores. They are not drugs. They are said to work on the emotional level of the patient. Rescue Remedy is very good at evening out fearfulness and feelings of panic, so that the brain can "think" and learn better ways to deal with the emotion. You can use Rescue Remedy most easily simply by adding it to the pet's drinking water.
The "fear trance" really does sound like a panic attack, where emotions short-circuit the brain. Hanna is so scared she can't even think anymore. A way to combat this is to give her brain something to do, something else to concentrate on INSTEAD OF the fear-trigger (i.e., stranger). Have you worked with her in obedience? or does she have a favorite toy--maybe a ball or a Frisbee? I know of dogs that panic during thunderstorms who learn to cope with the fear by instead carrying around and concentrating on a favorite toy or obedience exercise-they still know the fearful person/sound is there, but their brain is focused on a job and so is less likely to slip into panic mode.
MESSAGE: I need your help. I have had my Snoopy since she was born and for the last 7 years she has been my baby. I love that she has always been there for me. I dropped her off at my parents as if she were in daycare and pick her up after work. I now have a three year old and deeply regret leaving her behind at my mother's house. My problem was that my boyfriend didn't want her in the house. She IS a housedog. Well, I left her at my mom's and she developed a skin rash that will not go away. It's been a year now and I have taken her to the vet. They say she has allergies and give me medicine but it has not worked. She has lost her hair and her skin is still dry and itchy. I've even tried the baby shampoo for dry scalp. What else can I do for her? I miss her so much and want to help her feel better. I want her back at home with me. She means so much to me because she has been there for me even through my pregnancy. Can you help or suggest something. Sincerely, Miriam
In the meantime, STOP using any human shampoo product on the dog. Human babies tend to have oily scalp, so baby shampoo is very drying. Dog skin is much thinner than human skin. So any human shampoo (especially baby shampoo) likely will just make the dog's dry skin drier, and itchier. Instead, go to the vet or to the pet products store and look for a DOG shampoo that includes oatmeal. Oatmeal is very soothing, and is a natural way to stop itching and help heal the skin. You can also look for a product called "Omega 3 Fatty Acids" that you can add to the dog's food. These oils are very healing to skin and also have some natural anti-itch properties.
Good luck! And I hope you're able to work out a way to have your dog with you. Some of this itchiness may be stress-related and if the dog is able to spend more time with you, the problems may diminish. MESSAGE: I have a black Lab who always is chewing up things but most of all won't stop eating. She ate my family's whole dinner when we went off to pick some one up, gets into trash, and even eats animal fesses! I think she does it for attention, but I think she's been having this eating problem before we got another dog or cats. We give her attention but she acts so bad it makes us mad, and if she keeps eating this way she'll die. During the winter my family has a busy schedule, but we still pet her and love her as much as the other dog. What can we do to stop this eating problem. Katy
First, invest in a dog-proof garbage can or set the wastebasket behind a door that can be latched so the dog can't reach it. It's not fair to the dog to leave something out within reach to tempt her appetite, and expect her to ignore it. Consider your dog to be on a par with a 4-6 year old human child....would you leave the child unattended with a bowl full of Halloween candy and expect it to be ignored? *s* At least with a child, you speak the same language--your dog only understands the emotion in your words, so it's hardly fair to expect her to understand, "Now Poochie, don't you touch my dinner while I go answer the phone..." In other words, think of the situations that MIGHT get her in trouble, and prevent them from happening. Give your dog every opportunity to be good, praise GOOD behavior (so she's not constantly being shamed...that doesn't do much for canine feelings or your feelings of love for her).
Eating feces-that's a distinctly doggy trait. Some dogs simply get into this bad habit. The easiest thing to do is pick up the yard. Something else you can do is add a product called CurTail (available from pet supply stores) to the dog's food-it supposedly makes the feces taste bad so dogs won't eat them.
Third, wear out some of her Lab energy with exercise. All dogs need 20-30 minutes aerobic exercise twice a day to stay healthy. And a tired dog is a much better behaved dog. Get outside and run her around the yard with the Frisbee, ball, or other special game she loves. Enroll her in canine obedience or agility sports -- put her brain to work with constructive endeavors. Labs are very very smart---but if you don't give her something to do, she'll find trouble (just like a precocious child).
Fourth, to give that brain something to do when you aren't there, invest in some puzzle toys such as Kong, or the Buster Cube, or Goody Ship. These are hard rubber chew toys that you can fill with treats--peanut butter, hard biscuits, cream cheese, whatever--and that keeps the dog focused on the toy and away from illegal targets. Good luck! MESSAGE: I have 3 year old Jack Russell/Basenji cross named Asha, she has been epileptic since the age of 6 months and she has just been diagnosed with PLL (Primary Lens Luxation)in her left eye. She is going for surgery in 2 days to have her left eye removed, the ophthalmologist has advised that the lens in her other eye moves and will also luxate if we do not keep a close watch and get the lens out before it happens. I've tried to find information about prosthetic eye surgery and the success rate but am having no luck. My vet does not like to use the prosthetics due to rejection, but the ophthalmologist did not make any mention of rejection. Can you please also advise about the lens removal surgery, as it looks like I will have to have her lens removed before she becomes completely blind. Is there a connection between her epilepsy and the PLL? I apologize for being so long winded but my dog is everything to me and I only want what's best for her. Thanking you in advance, Sarah
The second type of prosthetic is an actual replacement of the eyeball. In this surgery, the eyeball is removed, but the muscles preserved which will "grow into" the prosthetic sphere made of hydroxy apatite (sort of a porous coral material). That allows the prosthetic to still move in concert with the other eye--and once healed, an ocularist (eyeball artist) creates a shell that matches the other eye--this is what's usually done in people who have lost an eye. It's pretty expensive, though, so pets rarely have this
done.
I really don't have statistics on success rates or rejections. I do know that in the cases of corneal transplants, rejection is extremely rare because apparently the eyeball is a "protected" area and has little rejection problems. Again, the veterinary ophthalmologist has the best answers to these questions.
Wait a moment--I may have not completely understood your question (just re-read it). There is also a procedure commonly done in dogs with cataracts that removes the problem lens and then replaces it with a new plastic lens. That tends to be referred to as lens replacement or cataract surgery (not prosthetic surgery) so I may be confusing these procedures. In lens replacement surgeries, dogs DO tend to suffer much more inflammation after the procedure than people do, and that means the dog must receive eye drops 4-6 times a day for at least 2 weeks and sometimes even 6 weeks or longer. Is that the procedure your Asha will undergo? The success rate, when performed by an ophthalmologist, tends to be quite good. You might find some answers on their website at www.acvo.com Good luck with your dog's surgery! Hope I've answered some of your questions.
CURIOSITY answered by questions about CATS submitted by YOU!
MESSAGE: Our kitten Mitchka chews things like a puppy might. At first we thought that it was very cute and normal since she was teething. However, she is still doing this on this rug and several other items (she's now a year old) so needless to say we are concerned. The vet said that he had never encountered this problem in cats. At first he thought that she may be lacking something in her diet - but we feed her "Iams" kitten food and he thought that that should be fine. She is getting big and looks and for the most part acts normal, except for this relentless chewing--and she can be little high strung and jumpy. I wonder if the problem may be nerves, and what we should do about it? I am not too eager to put her on drugs as a solution. I was hoping that you may have some thoughts and/or suggestions on this matter.
best regards, Busha
A condition termed "wool sucking" most often affects Siamese and the cats often target loosely woven wool-content cloth, and gnaw holes in them. Not only does that damage your possessions, but potentially can cause dangerous blockages if Mitchka swallows inedible objects.
Some veterinary behaviorists believe the behavior has OCD components (obessive/compulsive); a few cats do chew because they crave more fiber; and I'm sure a percentage do this out of boredom, or as an attention-seeking behavior.
Here are some things you can try. Increase the fiber in Mitchka's diet--grate some lettuce/cabbage, offer some green beans, or a tablespoon of canned pumpkin to her dinner. Many cats relish the pumpkin as a treat and it's very high in fiber. Another option would be to see about switching her to a "hairball" commercial food, which typically have increased fiber.
These kitties make us be ruthless housekeepers, LOL! You'll need to keep target items picked up and out of the cat's reach. Try giving Mitchka a "legal" chewing outlet. Plant some wheat grass for her grazing pleasure--pet products companies often have "grow kits" for cats. The rawhide chews designed for Toy-size dogs often tempt these kitties, especially if you soak them for a bit in water or chicken broth and zap with the microwave to soften just a bit.
If it is an anxiety-based behavior, consult with a veterinarian behaviorist to see if drug therapy might help. Personally, that'd be my last resort and hopefully you can manage this without a prescription. Good luck! Keep me posted what happens.
I also have three other healthy, younger cats. I would like to have better knowledge of Goldie's health condition so I can try to prevent that same fate for their sakes. I am concerned about stimulating their minds, however, we don't find a lot of time to play with three cats. They do have window access, etc. which may be enough for now.
I just read "Love to the Max" on Cats.com. I've been wanting to write to someone about Goldie to share thoughts. Sorry, but you got stuck with my letter :) I intend to read your book on Aging Cats. However, do you recommend any other outlets for me to contact about my situation with Goldie? Thanks for your time. Please respond if you have any chance at all. Thanks for your website. Sincerely, Rosemarie
As mentioned in the story "Love to the Max," the off-label use of Anipryl can help a percentage of cats. It's a bit pricey, though. The generic might be a more economical option--selegiline hydrochloride I'd guess could be available through a regular pharmacy. Some of the holistic veterinarians like a choline supplement. You could ask your veterinarian to look into this site and see if he thinks it might help Goldie: http://www.mvplabs.com/dietary.products.php
I wish I could offer some more helpful advice. Keeping your younger cats "engaged" in life with things to watch and do can certainly help. Creating puzzles for them to work, such as hiding food inside treat balls and the like, can prompt them to use their brains more. Best wishes with Goldie, and the rest of your furry crew.
At this point, just loving the kitty, and keeping him as happy and comfortable as possible is the single most important thing you can do. Goldie trusts you to do what's right--so trust yourself. Decisions made on behalf of pets, when made with love, CANNOT be wrong.
I moved a clean litter pan into the area he was messing, and he is now using that rather than the floor. After a week, I moved the pan to a different area of the room, and he is still using it. I have two pans in the basement-one regular pan and one Littermaid pan. One day, I noticed the way he was looking at the Littermaid pan, so I thought to move it away from the other pan. Well, the next day I saw that he had peed in the regular pan, but had pooped in the pan upstairs. I leave a light on in the basement for him at night so he can see. He continues to use both pans, but the one upstairs more frequently than the one in the basement. I live with family who do not tolerate the litter pans too well, and so cannot leave the pan upstairs much longer. I am afraid that if I remove it, he will start using the floor again.
Nothing has changed in the house. Nothing new has been brought in, nothing has been taken out. Nothing has been moved around, either. Everyone's schedule is the same as it has always been. I do not know why he decided to start misbehaving, but if he does not stop real soon, he will be thrown out (NOT by me, but by my father and his wife). He cannot go outdoors as he is declawed and too old. He has been checked by the vet and is in very good health, is still active and able to get around with no difficulty. He can run up and down the steps, still chases my feet under the covers at night, and so on.
PLEASE help me! Phil as been with me for more than half my life. Losing him would be like losing a child. I just do not know what to do and time is running out. Jill
Cats this age often develop health issues such as hyperthyroidism, diabetes, or kidney problems--any one of those might prompt some of the symptoms you describe. Specific blood tests can tell if any one of these is a problem for Phil. Older cats also become more "needy" and some have memory problems that make it hard for them to remember where the litter box is to find it in time. Finally, older kitties can have arthritis that makes it hard for them to maneuver--they hide it VERY well, so it may be that later in the day after Phil has moved around a bit, he's better able to get up and down stairs or in and out of the box...but some times his stiffness makes that hard for him.
I wish there was more I could suggest. Good luck with this. I hope your father and his wife understand what Phil means to you--he's a beloved aging family member, and we don't throw Grandma out when she has aging challenges, we find ways to accommodate and keep her cherished and comfy. Please keep me posted, Jill.
Secondly, my neighbor's very sweet & gorgeous orange and white female is very pregnant, and due any day with kittens. I am EXTREMELY tempted to take a baby girl, but have some concerns. 1) I do not want to upset AJ, or have him feel in any way threatened. With him being so young, would he eventually adjust & appreciate a baby sis? 2) Mama cat is an outside cat who has fleas, and father is unknown. The fleas are being treated by a special treatment for use with pregnant cats, but she still has them as of now. Also, she hasn't been tested for any diseases, and I don't think she's had regular shots (she's almost two years old). Am I being silly in considering a new one in my one bedroom apartment? I of course would take the new baby to the vet before exposing her to AJ (and I will follow the procedures for introduction from your book, using my bathroom as "kitty central"), but are there diseases that can be transmitted that the vet would not pick up on a first visit?
I am a student who lives alone, and I just wanted a companion for AJ. Plus, I'm addicted to cats now, and I'll be seeing the birth, which will make it very difficult to turn down the offer!! What do you think? Thanks, Stephanie P.S. LOVE your books, and how is Seren?
As for adding another kitten--probably this would be a good time as far as AJ is concerned (of course, making sure the new kitty is healthy, etc, as you say). Cats start to become less social right around 10-14 months and introducing another kitten now would probably be good timing. As long as both AJ and the newcomer both get lots of attention and have enough space to share with personal "property" available, it could be a good thing for them both. Heck, AJ might decide that licking/grooming the other cat's fur is tastier than yours, LOL!
Thanks for writing. I'm delighted you enjoy my books--and thanks for asking, Seren is just fine--and putting the finishing 'pawsitive' touches on the next book. *s*
Also I have recently gotten a female kitten that is about four months old. My cat Pepper is fixed but now all of a sudden he is acting like he is unfixed with her. He goes behind her and grabs the back of neck to hold her down. My kitten has no idea what is going on and screams very loud. Is it possible that the fixing came undone or is it just normal when you have two males that this is his way of showing territory? Please help, the cat has many issues. Tamara
As for water, my cat just got a "cat fountain" for Christmas. She still enjoys drinking from the sink. Luckily she doesn't want to play in water too much and outgrew paddling in the toilet. Give Pepper some legal places to play in the water so he'll leave the others alone.
You can go to www.ssscat.com to purchase an aerosol cat deterrent that hisses when the motion detector is triggered. Place a few of those around to keep Pepper at bay when you aren't there to supervise.
As for his pinning down the younger kitten--yep, that's pretty much normal adult cat behavior and more a dominance display than truly sexual. Try dabbing a tiny bit of Vicks on the back of the kitten's neck to keep Pepper at bay. Good luck with your cats. Sounds like you've got your hands full!
MESSAGE: In April of 2001, my cat, George, received a kidney transplant from UC Davis due to chronic renal failure. There were moments when this small cat made me feel totally inadequate to care for him, even after raising three kids, but we have somehow survived. George is 6 years old, an orange tabby, and currently fat and sassy. Realizing the controversy surrounding feline transplants, I just wanted people to know how grateful we are that this was an option for a beloved family member. We also have Tango, the donor cat whom we most grateful for and are spoiling rotten and who now is also a beloved family member. I personally spent much time agonizing over the ethics of a transplant, but now, after having gone thru this first hand, there in no doubt in my mind whatsoever, that my decision was right and without hesitation I would do this again. In fact, I would have no hesitation with most human transplants either. This was a most awakening experience. Even one of my local vets says that he would not have thought this was a viable option before and will now offer a transplant as an option for cats with CRF. Susan
MESSAGE: Hello Ms. Shojai, For various reasons, I moved back home with my mom and brought Chico to live with me. We thought it would be a lot of fun for (her kitten and Chico) to become reacquainted and have each other to play with so we introduced them to each other as per the instructions in your book. Aside from the occasional tussle the two quickly became best friends-and were on their way to becoming parents themselves which is why my mom and I decided to get them neutered and spayed at the end of the year (at which point they would be 6 months). Before neutering Chico, I thought we should have both of them tested for Felv, FIV, and FIP.
Chico tested negative on all three diseases…to our horror Misty tested very high in the Coronavirus level in which the veterinarian said she may be carrying FIP. We are devastated by the news especially since she shows no signs of effusive or noneffusive FIP. She's very healthy weighs six pounds and has a lot of energy. Nevertheless, we
have since put her in quarantine per our veterinarian's instruction until she tests again in three weeks. We feel awful and we know both of them do too.
I've been doing a lot of research and found a lot of encouraging news but I am very frightened for her, my mom, and Chico--we all love her very much. Given the fact that she shows no signs of the disease and given the fact that there are millions of different Coronavirus' isn't it possible that she may have a different type of Coronavirus that is being identified as FIP because of the lack of specialization of the test (I don't know which one he used)? And if that is the case will Misty and Chico be able to be around each other again once it is determined that her Coronavirus is in fact not FIP? And if it is another type of Coronavirus will she be able to get some sort of antibiotic or other treatment to dispel the Coronavirus? Also, won't the stress of being separated from Chico put her at greater risk? Any information you could provide or refer me to would be really appreciated. Sincerely,
Sharmane
I would urge you -- and your veterinarian -- to check out the references available at the following website, in particular the overview article by Dr. Alice Wolf -- http://catvet.homestead.com/FIP.html FIP is extremely complicated and confusing to pet owners AND to veterinarians, so I try to always go to the folks like Dr. Diane Addie, Dr. Alice Wolf, and other experts who stay current on the state of research. Sharmane, hug your kittens for me. I'm confident that you'll have 'em BOTH around to enjoy for many many years to come.
FOLLOW-UP: Hello Amy, I just wanted to share with you that Misty was retested and deemed FIP negative. She's since been allowed back into the rest of the house and Chico and Misty are back at it. Thanks again for all your help- I did consult the sites you suggested and did get some useful information from them. We're ecstatic at the way everything turned out! Thanks for your support again! Gratefully, Sharmane
MESSAGE: Hi Amy, I adopted a stray kitten a little over two months ago; the vet thinks she's about 5 months old now. First of all, I wanted to let you know what a valuable resource your Kitten Care book has been - especially for a first-time pet owner. I've followed much of your advice, and Brooke, my kitten, quickly adapted to me and my home. Thank you!
She's a very sweet kitty - extremely playful, affectionate, happy - but there is one problem I've been having with her that I can't seem to find a solution for. She is biting my face and neck as what seems to be a sign of affection or trying to get my attention. It mostly happens when I'm in bed, sleeping (or partly sleeping) and she's snuggled up next to me. It started with her licking my closed eyelids, which I thought was sweet, but then all of a sudden one morning she took that to a new level when she bit my cheek. Since then it's become a regular thing: she goes for my neck, my chin, my forehead... all the while purring, which is why I think it's meant to be affectionate. It's never hard, but it does still hurt. Why is she doing this, and how can I get her stop? I have a studio apartment, so keeping her out of the bedroom all night is not an option (she gets time outs in the bathroom), plus I like having her sleep with me. I just don't want to have to be up in wee hours to keep her from biting me! Do you have any advice you can offer me about a very special kitty with a lot of personality? Thanks so much for reading this, Karen
Since your kitten's nips grew from affectionate interaction, it's pretty clear that she's taking her happy-talk to another level. Many cats use love nips on their favorite human when they just can't contain their joy. Her problem is she's not learned to inhibit the bite.
Have you tried using the SCREAM method? A very loud, short exclamation of pain often will do the trick to let her know that she is hurting you and that you are not playing. You will likely need to repeat this many times--kittens do tend to forget themselves.
To keep her away from your face, neck and forehead while you sleep, try smearing a bit of Vicks VapoRub on the exposed skin. Not only will it open your sinuses but also the aroma is very off-putting to cats and should keep her at bay. It also should teach her that trying to bite these areas doesn't get her the attention she wants--but only a snoot-full of a nasty smell. Good luck!
MESSAGE: Amy, Need help with a situation with 18-day-old kittens. Mom and babies were noted inside an abandoned house. When neighbors kicked the door down to free them, the momma cat bolted and hasn't been seen since. The babies have been hand fed (KMR) since then, but were not doing very well. We located a momma cat that had her babies taken away less than a week ago. She started to dry up, but the vet feels that if the kittens nurse, within 3 days, she'll be back with milk again. Momma took to the babies right away-grooming them, etc. She is lying so they will nurse, but the kittens are imprinted to humans now and don't know what to do. We've tried smearing KMR near her nipples, but the kittens just haven't caught on yet. Any suggestions? Linda
At 18 days, these kittens are "almost" to the age of beginning to take some solid food--3 weeks generally is about the earliest you would start 'em on solids, when they're orphans. Might try that and see how they do. Run some Kitten Chow or other appropriate kitten kibble through the blender with equal parts KMR or water, and offer the kittens the gruel. They'll likely first just play in it, but then start licking it off themselves and each other.
MESSAGE: My cat Rebel has gone through some recent trauma. We had a tornado here in Cordell, and our house was destroyed. Rebel and my other cat Ginger were home at the time, as was my dog, who had to good sense to crawl under the house and wasn't hurt. The cats had to stay at the vet's until we could find a new home, which took approximately a month. So, I guess they're entitled to a little mental aberration.
Rebel's problem is this: although we have two cat boxes, which I keep clean, she likes to relieve herself on one of my new throw rugs. Only the one rug, mind you, and I don't know what to do about it. I've tried sprinkling peppermint extract on the rug. She stays away from it one day, then returns to the behavior. I tried cinnamon oil. She liked that, and immediately christened the rug with her favor. I'm at my wits end. Okay, I could get rid of the rug, but I'm being selfish. Having just put a home back together; having decorated it to my liking, I hate to change. Maybe that's how my trauma is showing up :)
If you have any other suggestions, I would be excited to read them. Sarah
I'm surprised she liked cinnamon. Catnip is related to peppermint and some cats love that! Cleaning away the urine odor is the best hope for this rug and you'll need an odor neutralizer (one of those enzyme-containing products) available from places like PetsMart. But frankly, there are some new carpets that have been treated with chemicals that, to the cat, smell like kitty urine. Same thing happens often with the plastic/rubber-backed bath mats, there's something about those that is attractive to cats. And there's nothing you can do about that. The carpet people are trying to figure out a way to solve this problem--be glad Rebel isn't urinating on the wall-to-wall carpeting, yikes!
Short of throwing away the throw rug, there are a couple of things you could try. In addition to using an odor neutralizer like OxyClean, try putting Rebel's food bowl smack-dab on top of the rug. Cats won't want to eliminate where they eat. That may be the nudge she needs.
Another thought...after all the stress, there may be some residual resentment re: the litter boxes particularly if she was "caught in the act" during the storm. Cats sometimes identify a scary or painful experience with a place/object. I usually recommend the 1+1 rule; that is, one litter box per cat, plus one. That means two cats would have three boxes. Some kitties want a separate box for each function, or decide they don't want to "go" after the other cat. These preferences can change as the cats mature, and the experience staying at the vet and away from home also may have influenced things.
MESSAGE: My female cat Daisy was with me since she was about 5 weeks. She still has a habit of nibbling on my fingers as if she was getting milk from her mother--and she only does this to me, especially when she is falling asleep. When she was little it was cute, but now I just don't think it's a good habit. Plus, if I am home she follows me around everywhere I go, and she gets very affected every time I step out--she is very attached to me. What is the best way to handle this? Rebecca
The second issue--her strong attachment to you--might possibly develop into a problem down the road. Might not...but just an FYI, we only recently have begun to identify/recognize separation anxiety disorders in cats. Dogs have long been known to suffer from this problem, usually displayed by destructive behaviors soon after the owner leaves the house. The main symptom that gets people upset in cats is 1) incessant crying and 2) messing on the owner's bed. Messing on the bed is the cat's way of marking that very important territory as her own property--the smell comforts her (even as it upsets the owner!). Owner gets more upset, which upsets the cat further--so the behavior continues.
Daisy's not at that point. And you don't WANT her to reach that point! About the only way to stop one of these pestering behaviors is to totally ignore it--that's reeeeeeeel hard to do! Some things you can do to try and buffer her strong attachment is to totally ignore her for 10 minutes before you leave, and 10 minutes immediate after returning home. Making a big deal over arrivals and departures reward her pestering behavior so she continues it.
Most times, both cats and dogs suffering from separation anxiety feel the worst during the first 20 minutes after the owner's gone. Therefore, if you can distract them during this time period with something better to do, it helps prevent the dog's destructive behavior and the cat's meowing/other behaviors. I like the puzzle-type toys that you can fill with treats. That gives the pet something to work and play with while you're gone, and is self-rewarding. They win the prize/treat if they can manipulate the puzzle ball the right way. Hope something here helps! MESSAGE: Amy, I had just buried my little dog that died from an infection. While I was clearing away the excess dirt I heard a faint meow and discovered a baby kitten that had been abandoned by its mom. Its eyes are not open, but a vocal little fellow. After waiting the night out to see if Mom would come back we decided to see if we could save her. We obtained some kitten milk from our vet and a bottle from Petsmart. She can stand on her own, walk a little but does wobble, but eyes are still not open. My wife bought your book and we are following your directions. The little kitten drinks about 15 ml to 30 ml at one setting and more if we allowed it. We wipe its bottom with a warm tissue and she has no problem there. We can't seem to determine her age and her eyes should be open. Can we feed her more and is there anything a vet can do to help open her eyes? Thanks again for your book. Richard and Dottie.
Eyes usually open earlier than this: 9-12 days is average. If there's a problem with the eyes (maybe that's why Mom-cat abandoned her?) the veterinarian should be able to tell. Kittens are prone to upper respiratory infections that can affect their eyes, and infection or discharge can seal the eyes shut. If that's the case, a warm wet cloth held against the lids 2-3 times a day helps soften and unseal the lids.
But if the eyelids seem to have swelling underneath, please have the vet take care of that immediately--the doctor may have to carefully open the lids to release any pressure or infection. With a squirmy kitten, you really don't want to try doing that yourself.
As for feeding, yes, you can feed her more. I'd let her eat as much as she wants. She may be making up for lost time away from Mom. It's really hard to "guess" over email what's happening with this little one---so please rely on the veterinarian. Bless you for adopting this needy kitten -- and please accept my condolences on the loss of your dog. In a way, losing the one has saved the life of the other.... MESSAGE: I am a dog owner but truly love most animals. We are having a problem with a cat that lives next door. The owners let the cat run at will and the cat is causing some problems. I feed birds and, of course, some of the feed falls on my patio. The cat waits for the seed to fall and gets the birds who are eating it. It really upsets me as I feel like I am baiting the birds for the neighbor's cat. I have mentioned it to the neighbors and they just respond by saying, I don't know what we are going to do with him. The second problem is the cat likes to get in our flowerbeds and sleep. In so doing, it breaks off the flowers and instead of having a beautiful full flowerbed, we have gaps in it where the cat sleeps. We don't wish any harm to the cat. We like the cat, we just feel that the owners are irresponsible. Is there anything that would serve as a deterrent to the cat that would not cause it harm? Linda
As for the flowers, there is a product available at some garden supply stores called the Scarecrow. Essentially, it's a sprinkler that functions via a motion detector/electric eye. A cat (or other critter) that breaks the field triggers the mechanism, and turns on the water. Shouldn't bother the birds at all, but most cats will be shooed away. Bless you for your patience.
MESSAGE: Cindy [pet columnist] at the Memphis Commercial Appeal gave me your information when I called her with a question about my kitty cats. I have moved across state and have two kitty cats. Otis is 10 years old. When I moved from Memphis, I had to leave them at our house for a couple of weeks. He had lived in the house for about 5 years before we moved to an apartment. When I took him there, he started crying like I have never heard before and acted like he did not remember his sister kitty, Lucy, or even me. He continued this throughout most of the night. I am wondering what I can do to make the move across the state easier on him. He did calm down at the house after about a week. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Katie
First, on the trip across state I assume you're driving? In most cases, it's best to avoid sedation--that can depress breathing and heart rate and actually can cause more problems. It would be helpful to get both cats used to the carrier now, a little bit at a time, so they're not faced with THAT being new for the trip. Make the carrier part of the furniture--set it out in the living area with the door off, put catnip and/or toys inside, and make it a fun place. Put the cats inside for short periods, then let them out and give a reward.
Secondly, when you arrive at your new home, set up one room (a bedroom? bathroom?) as the cat's temporary home base. Cats aren't willing to do ANYTHING until they feel comfortable with their surroundings, so make the initial introduction into the home a very small, finite space they can easily learn very quickly. Put the litter boxes, food and water bowls, scratch objects, toys, etc. in this room with the cats, and shut the door. Let them explore, cheek-rub, and settle down into this one room only. They don't need to be running around the rest of the house and see you rearranging furniture or unpacking boxes--that just keeps the environment in flux and keeps their tails in a twist. Wait until everything is unpacked and in permanent place--and your cats have had time to cheek-rub their NEW room and feel comfortable there. Then you can allow them to explore the rest of the house at their own pace, with you there. (You are the one constant in their lives, you are the most important part of their territory--you need to be there for moral support). At night or whenever you aren't there, segregate them back in their safe room for at least the first week, or until they feel comfortable out and about.
There are a couple of products I really like for helping cats deal with stress. Bach Flower Remedies, especially the herbal liquid called Rescue Remedy, really seems to help some cats with anxiety. This is not a drug-and even the experts aren't sure how it works. But it DOES work in a percentage of cats and helps take the edge off of fright. You can get it at health food stores, and it can be added into the cats' drinking water. The second product, Feliway, is a spray analogue of the feline cheek pheromones that signal to the cat, "stay calm, everything is safe and fine." Spraying Feliway inside the cat carrier during the cross-state trip, and spraying prominent kitty cheek-rub landmarks in the new home, can work well to speed up the transition. Feliway is available at most pet product outlets and on the internet--I get mine at peerlesshealth.com (they seem to have one of the better prices).
MESSAGE: Hi Amy, Thanks for all the wonderful information in your "Kitten Care and Training" and "Complete Kitten Care" books. We've found them to be an invaluable source of information. Our new kitten, Sippy, is almost 5 months old and is not yet neutered. We are about to introduce two adult cats into his home. (Your book talks about just the opposite situation where a kitten is introduced to a home where an established cat or cats already live.) These two adult cats are both four year old, spayed females (of course) and currently live together. One is allowed to go outside but the other is an indoor cat. In about a month the two adult cats will be moving into the home of the kitten. (The new home will be indoor only because of the dangers of city life.) Are there any steps we should take differently to help ease this new "marriage"? Will the new adults overrun the kitten? Does the psychology change when the kitten's home is being invaded by two established adult cats? Also, we're planning on having Sippy neutered in a few weeks. Is the timing of this procedure critical to the timing of the introduction of the two adult cats into the home? Should they get to know each other before the procedure, after the procedure, or does it not really matter? Thanks for your time and attention to our situation. We look forward to reading more of your books. Ed and Kathleen
Probably it would be best to have Sippy neutered prior to the introduction. Oftentimes, cats that know each other and get along well may develop a sudden (usually temporary) aversion to one of their buddies after he's spent time at the vet clinic--he smells funny when he comes home! So get that part of Sippy's care over with before bringing in the two new cat friends.
I'd still set aside one room with litter box, food bowls, scratch posts, etc. and make the two new cats at home in this area. Let them become comfortable in their new environment prior to any nose-to-nose meeting with Sippy. The basic instructions in COMPLETE KITTEN CARE will work here---just treat these kitties as the 'new' ones in the household, and Sippy as the 'resident' cat. Give them time to get used to each other's smells and presence before allowing them to meet. It will be very important to let the two older cats to check out the rest of the house at some point, without Sippy's interference. And if one of these kitties has been used to outdoor stimulation, the challenge will be to provide lots of cat trees and other fun feline alternatives to keep the cat happy and engaged.
One piece of information is missing--will the humans also be "new" to the two adult cats, or is at least one person in the new home familiar to the adult newcomer cats? That can make a difference. If the new cats aren't used to the humans in the home, then you can use the vanilla trick to help Sippy smell more like they do, and vice versa. If the older pair are closely bonded with a human who also lives in the house, it could be very helpful to use that person's perfume or cologne instead. Basically, you want these set-in-their-ways older cats to identify Sippy as smelling like a safe, known, and loved human to sort of smooth the stress. MESSAGE: Hi again, Amy, First e-mailed you when we got our new kittens, Madalyn and Wellington. Your book was a great help. Wellington (now four months old) may be developing Feline Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy. Looking for any comments or advice you might have. Our veterinarian has done x-rays and ultrasound at this point. Thanks so much for anything you have to say, Ruth
If it is, early treatment can help a great deal and even reverse some of the symptoms. A friend of mine has a Maine Coon diagnosed with HC at about 6 months of age, and "Blue" was given the human drug Atenol. This drug blocks specialized nerve receptors on the heart and blood vessels to help stabilize the heart rate. After 6 months on the medicine, a follow up echocardiogram showed that the damage to Blue's heart was nearly reversed. This kitten's story is in Pet Care in the New Century.
There are likely other drugs available, too, that can help with this. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to an internist (cardiac) specialist - a list of folks is available online at www.acvim.org (that's the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine). Please keep me posted on how Wellington is doing. MESSAGE: My seven-year-old son has a two-year-old cat who is the apple of his eye and a dear member of the family. Recently however, we have been faced with the dreaded problem of Chase (the cat) having a urinary track infection and as a result, have discovered he has been urinating all over the house. Here's what I've done so far, but your name was given to me as one who can advise me on if its enough and if not, what else is there.
He's now on clarmox for 2 weeks 3x/day. I have cleaned the carpets in the affected rooms with Nature's Miracle and I'll be pulling up and replacing the affected carpet-padding this weekend. I have installed screen doors on both bedrooms (don't think my neighbors have begun thinking I have TOTALLY lost my mind now) so as to keep him out, but the air/heat flow in. This morning, I discovered yet another room, one not so easily protected from his dirty deed; the great room (which is an open floor plan with the kitchen). This morning I pulled out my extra large dog training crate, and move chase, his litter box, food/water and a laundry basket with his blanket into it. I'm hoping I can retrain him to the litter box? Is this possible, or am I wasting my time. Is this enough, or is there something more I can do? I love my cat, and my son would never forgive me if I'm forced to find him another home, but my house is small and I can't have him urinating throughout. Any thoughts or advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. Debbey
A couple of thoughts here, and questions -- did the veterinarian actually culture Chase's urine? The reason I ask is that although cystitis and urinary infections are extremely common in dogs, cats almost NEVER have an infection. The antibiotic often is given as a "just in case" scenario. Cats with cystitis (bladder/urinary tract inflammation) may have different kinds of crystals in the urine that influences the irritation and promotes hit-or-miss litter box behavior. But there are quite a significant percentage of these cats termed "idiopathic" which basically means there is no cause to be found. No infection, no crystals, nothing. In women they call this "interstitial cystitis" and it results in painful and frequent need to urinate. In both cats and women, stress can be the major factor and cats
have flare ups whenever they get upset. That makes it even more difficult to treat. The cat basically feels like he needs to "go" all the time. You get upset at him for messing the house, that increases his stress level--and a vicious cycle is born.
Here are some things you can try, individually or in combination. First, my rule of thumb is one litter box plus one for every cat you have (1+1 rule). That's because some cats don't want to use the same facility for both solids and liquids. In Chase's case, if he's having trouble reaching the facilities in time, adding an extra box may be the help he needs.
Second, if you can try to figure out what sort of stressor may be influencing the behavior. Is this recent? Has it coincided with your son returning to school? a change in the routine? If that's the case, over time some of that stress may be reduced as Chase gets used to the new schedule. There is a product I like very much called Feliway that can help some cats with stress reduction. Feliway is an analogue of the cheek pheromones that cats make and spread around their environment with cheek-rubs. The scent tells them, "Be cool, stay calm, everything's safe!" So spraying Feliway in Chase's home environment may help take the edge off any upset feelings he has. Feliway is available at most pet product stores. I get mine at www.peerlesshealth.com
A third option is prescription drug therapy, borrowed from the human approach to idiopathic cystitis. that address both the stress and the inflammation of the bladder. Amitriptyline (brand name Elavil) must be prescribed by your veterinarian. It works in people to counter anxiety and depression, and also helps block the release of inflammatory cells in the bladder wall. Elavil can be a bit pricey--but a common antihistamine called hydroxizine is very similar and some veterinarians believe it works as well (and it's very inexpensive!). Any of these drug options, though, may take up to several weeks before improvement is shown.
In the meantime, confining Chase to the large dog pen probably isn't a bad idea. If the stress is a factor, the security of having a finite safe space to call his own could help calm him down quite a bit. Certainly I'd suggest allowing him out to run and play WITH DIRECT SUPERVISION for a couple of sessions a day. Good luck--and please keep me posted on how things progress. Hope something here helps! MESSAGE: My husband and I have taken home two kittens, approx. 8 weeks old. We had intended to adopt only one cat, but when we arrived to look over the kitties, our friend gave us the "hard-sell" on taking a second kitty. Space is not an issue for two cats. Still, my husband has never had any pets before and has always considered himself a dog person; he feels overwhelmed at the idea of two full grown cats to care for. He enjoys the kittens now (one boy, one girl), but we're both concerned he will become disaffected as they reach their adolescence (he is worried about smells, and damage to our "stuff").
1) Would keeping one kitten only be detrimental to his/her development. I have never had two cats at once, so this is a big step for me, too. 2) If we return one, how do we choose? Would one sex do better than another? What type of personality would be better suited? Little girl is adventurous, more agile and athletic, a little more sparkly than her brother; she leads the way in checking out new things. Little boy is a little more docile (with us) and physically unsure, but at the same time more territorial; he seems to dominate his sister. 3) If we do keep both, I have a concern about behavior. I know kittens play at fighting, tussling and wrestling. But little boy will often use his jaws to grab and hold his sister at the throat, not letting go even though she eventually starts to cry. I try to stop this behavior each time I see it; is that appropriate? Is it something to worry about? If so, how can we prevent it happening when we are not around (we both work daytime hours, by the way)? Will they outgrow this? Or will one's dominance be established eventually, making this sort of thing rarely necessary? 4) Finally, we have a large stray population in our neighborhood, with some cats who make regular rounds of our yard. We intend to fence in the back, but this will not keep strays out. Will the presence of these cats outside cause anxiety and/or behavior problems for our cat(s)? How can we make sure they feel secure in this situation? As I mentioned, they will not be let out, but we have more than the average number of windows, with views on all sides of the house. Should this be a factor in choosing one over the other? Any advice you can offer will be great. I already find your book very helpful; I stayed up till 2 a.m. reading it last night. Thanks again, Susan
First off, 8 weeks is IMO too young for the babies to leave the mother cat. Of course, there's nothing you can do about that, LOL! But kittens that stay with the mother and siblings until they are 12-16 weeks of age seem to be much better behaved as they grow up because, frankly, Mom-cat and siblings are the best teachers. It is during this period of time that the kittens learn how to be cats; how to stalk and pounce; how to bite--or inhibit their bite and claws during play; how to groom themselves and each other; how to scratch the RIGHT object; and proper bathroom behavior. It's terrific that so far, the babies are using claws appropriately and only play-biting non-human objects.
Since Mom-cat isn't around (very often the situation in rescues or shelter adoptions), the next best thing is for a pair of kittens to live together. They will more readily teach each other to "play nice" than people ever could. It is the singleton kittens that often have trouble learning this lesson, and bite/claw owners too hard because they simply don't know any better. My own cat came to me at about 16 weeks as a stray, and it took a looooong time to teach her bite-manners.
So to answer your question--is keeping one kitten detrimental to development--it can be a negative influence on later adult behavior. That said, since you are an experienced kitten-raiser and have had success in the past with singletons, you'd likely know how to bring baby up "right" to prevent some of these issues.
As for being worried about smells and damage to stuff---believe me, two kittens aren't necessarily twice the trouble-makers, LOL! That very much depends on the individual animals involved. One kitten alone, who thinks he's Tarzan, can do more damage than a full clowder of cats who prefer staying closer to the floor. *s* Really the only smells you'd be facing have to do with the litter box, and routine maintenance should take care of that. Neutering/spaying the kittens ASAP will reduce by better than 80% any chance of urine "spraying" down the road, and will make a huge difference in the male urine smell.
How to choose--yikes! Sex doesn't really make that much of a difference. Some huge boy cats are incredibly shy, while tiny girl cats act ferocious--and vice versa. It's the individual personalities that are more important, and that doesn't necessarily fall along gender lines. Choice also depends on what you want out of the relationship. In general terms, the more outgoing the personality, the better. Outgoing confident cats adapt more easily to any sort of change, whether that's living with other animals or being a singleton. Of the two, that sounds like the "sparkly" girl kitten. Keep in mind that as these guys mature, there will be some changes in behavior and personality. All kittens play very hard, and nearly all enjoy snuggling in a lap. But once they mature, cats tend to fall into one of two norms: lap kitties who like to snuggle, and ankle rubbers who prefer racing around and playing. It's very hard to predict with kittens but from what you say, my guess would be the snuggler is the boy, and the tag-you're-it kitty is the girl. Depending on what you want in a cat, that determination may also influence your choice.
I hope you'll decide to keep both. They sound like their personalities sort of fit each other. As for the rough play, usually that settles down once a hierarchy is established. It may also be that you stepping in to "settle" things interferes with this process--hard to say. You certainly don't want either kitten injured! I'd be more worried if they were adults. With older cats, interfering can make the dominant kitty that much more determined to kick furry tail and make his/her point. But at 8 weeks, YOU are the most dominant, biggest darn cat in the house and are in a position to enforce YOUR rules. I wonder if it happens when you're not around...it could even be an attention-grabbing device because the kitten knows you'll run to the rescue. *shrug* If there's concern there, you might try painting some Bitter Apple on the girl kitten's throat. She shouldn't be able to lick herself there and get turned off to self-grooming, but it could give the boy second thoughts the next time he grabs her.
Finally, the presence of stray cats outside the house could, indeed, influence behavior of your pair on the inside. However, there's no way to predict if one or the other, both, or neither would have problems. That really can't be factored in to the decision of choice at this point in time. Some girl cats get upset more than boys, and vice-versa.
Susan, I'm glad you've enjoyed the book (so far). Please keep me posted what happens with the "kids" and which one(s) you decide to keep. I'm sure this is the beginning of a wonderful relationship--for all of you!
FOLLOW-UP: Hi Amy, Your information is very helpful and reassuring. Let me tell you right away, we have decided to keep both kittens. They've grown so much in the week since we took them home, and after reading your book, we certainly want to give them every opportunity to be good. I appreciate your support! Susan
MESSAGE: My 8 year old Scruffy has a strange habit of getting an erection whenever he sees a certain knitted afghan I have. I can pull the afghan out to cover up with, and he comes running over and starts "kneading" with his paws. This lasts for 3 - 4 minutes, a really long time it seems to me. He gets this fixed look on his face and doesn't like to be petted at this time, will meow and dodges the petting, doesn't respond to it like he normally would. Then after 3- 4 minutes of this, he sits down and licks his erect penis. This has been going on for several years. He was neutered around 6 months of age, never has been around a female and has never gone outside. I have 2 other males that stay indoors, they all get along. He doesn't act strange to them (mating behavior) either. He is otherwise healthy, never sprays and is a perfect kitty. I have 18 cats and have had cats all my 45 years and have never heard of anything like this. No, I didn't mention this to the male vet. I didn't want to go there. I have washed the afghan, I don't think it has a female kitty smell to it, not that he would know what to do anyway. This is such a strange thing to me, I would appreciate your comments on this. Debbie
MESSAGE:
I'm in the process of adopting a stray mother cat with two kittens. The family lives in my garage now, having moved from a cozy corner outside, but will need to come indoors when it gets cold. Toilet training is becoming an issue. The mother goes outside and prefers not to use the box with cat litter I provided, the kits use the garage floor. What's your advice, Ms. Shojai? Gosia
There are a couple of options you can try. First, I'd suggest you try to figure out what "facilities" the mother cat IS using, in terms of dirt, leaves, sand, mulch, whatever. Then try filling the litter box with that-offering her a more familiar material in which to eliminate. You can then gradually mix in the commercial cat box filler--put the litter on the bottom of the box, with the leaves/whatever on top--to help transition her.
For the kittens, if mom uses the box that will help them get the idea. You can also help by leaving some of their--ahem--production in the box. Pick up a small amount of the kitten stool, and place in the litter box as a sort of aromatic reminder of what's expected, and then try to time the kittens' need to use the facilities. Generally, you can count on them needing relief right after they wake up from a nap, play vigorously, and/or eat. After these times, place the babies in the box, scratch in the litter with your finger a bit to give them the idea, and if/when they do make a deposit, praise them to high heaven! MESSAGE: Hi Amy, I have been reading your book because I want to raise a couple of kittens. I live alone in a small one-bedroom apartment in San Francisco, and I am away from home on average 10 hours a day. I am planning to get two kittens from the same litter. First, do you think exclusively indoor cats (i.e., who will not have interaction with other cats) like living with a cat friend, or do they prefer having the place, and the affections of a human caretaker, all to themselves? The reason I ask is because you write in your book that cats are generally solitary animals who usually get together in the wild only to breed. Second, are there space issues to consider when raising two cats? (I will have one room set aside for the kittens, but I will allow them access to the rest of the apartment and a small outdoor enclosure when they are ready).
I am quite allergic to some cats but not noticeably allergic to others. I am committed to keeping those that I choose for their entire lives. In choosing kittens, how do I make sure I will not be allergic to them? Does the hair length make a difference? I have also been told that one eventually develops an allergy-immunity to cats after living with them for a while. Is this true? Also, are there ways to minimize the potential for allergic reaction through special housecleaning and grooming procedures. Thanks, Amy. I will look forward to hearing from you. Mat
Whether a cat wants to share space with another feline is a very individual preference, though, just as some people enjoy socializing more than others. A lot of that has to do with what positive experiences the kittens are exposed to during their prime socialization period. If they never see another cat after leaving Mom, they may never be comfortable around other felines. And certainly, they may get upset if a strange cat is introduced--and want all the attention for themselves! If you want a pair of cats to get along, adopting them together at a young age is the way to go. Cats often form very strong attachments to each other, and enjoy the feline company.
Yes, there are space issues. It won't matter as much when they're young, but as they mature physically and emotionally, they will each want to "claim" property. Give them vertical space in the form of cat trees, shelves, perches and the like, to help prevent any wrangling over ownership.
I'm sorry, but there is no way to predict which kittens, if any, will prompt an allergic reaction. Hair length doesn't make any difference-even the Sphynx breed (nearly hairless) can prompt a reaction because it's the dried saliva (not hair) that's the culprit. Many allergic owners do say they build up a resistance to a particular animal but I know of no scientific studies that would validate that one way or another.
Yes, there are there ways to minimize the potential for allergic reaction. Keeping the cats clean and well groomed helps a great deal. Just rinsing them or wiping off the fur several times a week with plain water reduces the amount of allergen. Also, a product called Allerpet-C (available at pet stores) is designed to neutralize the Fel D1 protein in the saliva that prompts an allergic reaction. I believe the Allerpet-C comes as a spray and/or wipes that can be used on the kittens. Allergists also recommend that you reduce the numbers of allergen reservoirs (carpet, upholstery, pillows) and instead go with hardwood or linoleum that doesn't collect the particles. You also can reduce reaction by washing your hands after handling the kittens and before you touch your face; and creating one room as a "cat free zone" such as your bedroom, to offer some relief. MESSAGE: I've recently become the surrogate mommy to a kitten (Sebastian) whose sibling and mother were killed. The kitten was 4 weeks old when it came under my care, and to be honest, I'm having trouble trying to be a good mommy, and keep some semblance of order as well. My other cat (much to my surprise) gets along with the little one quite well-the other cat's name is nails-but there's a litter box problem. Sebastian doesn't know how to use one, and I'm afraid that his bad habit is going to give nails the wrong idea. Both cats are males, and the last thing I need is an all-out territory-marking-fest. I was told that when Sebastian poops to bring him (and the poop) to the litter box, and put them both inside, and that Sebastian should cover it up, and will eventually get the right idea. Sebastian is now almost 6 weeks old, and still doesn't do so well with this technique. I put him in the litter box with his poop, and he turns around and tries to eat the litter, and then climbs out and walks away. I've even tried showing him how to cover up his mess, but to no avail. Do you maybe have some ideas? I took some books out of the library on kittens, hoping to get some ideas, but most of the books I've been able to find assume that your kitten was ready to leave its mother by the time it came to be in your care, which if I'm not mistaken is 6-8 weeks old. But none of the ideas seem to work for my circumstances. Shanna
Also, if you have only one litter box, add at least one more and make sure it has low sides so the baby can get in and out more easily. Young kittens may be intimidated and reluctant to use a dominant cat's box so give Sebastion another opportunity. DON'T WAIT for him to have an accident. TIME his bathroom needs (after hearty play, after every meal, after waking from a nap) and place him in the litter box for him to be productive. You might also consider confining the baby to a small room with a litter box handy so he has less opportunity to make mistakes.
As for the territory marking--talk with your veterinarian about having the kitten neutered asap. Many shelters now perform spay/neuter once kittens reach 2 pounds in weight. These babies recover more quickly and you greatly reduce any chance of spraying in the future. Incidentally, IMO kittens are best left with mom and siblings until they're 12-16 weeks old so that they DO learn all the proper feline etiquette like bite inhibition, getting along with other cats, etc. MESSAGE: Dear Ms. Shojai, I really liked your latest book "Complete Kitten Care" but I have a question I have never seen answered in any book and I hope you can help me. I found my kitten as a stray when she was 6 weeks old. Although she was a stray she was healthy and very friendly. In fact, the fact that she was so loving was one of the nicest things about her. As a result she was handled and petting a great deal. She is now 6 months old and a few weeks ago she was spayed. However, I have noticed that the older she gets, the less loving she is. Now she will squirm out of my arms almost instantly and will never come to me for petting. Is this normal for a cat as they become an adult? I have never had a cat before. Will she become more loving again as her kitten energy slows down? Is there anything I can do to encourage her to be more loving or is this just her personality? I would be very grateful for any help you can give me. Carolyn
However, as they grow up, the adult personality often is a bit different than the baby's and it's not unusual for changes to occur. Part of that has to do with her becoming more confident and not relying so much on others for protection/comfort/care....she THINKS she can take care of herself, LOL! Think of an adolescent human child who wants to choose when to eat and sleep, what to wear, and simply be at "odds" with the status quo and that's about what an adolescent kitten goes through as well.
Very generally, when cats grow up the fall into two broad categories: 1) the lap-sitters who enjoy snuggling and are more touchy-feely 2) the ankle-rubbers, who don't care for cuddling but love to play interactive games. It may be that your kitten is evolving into a less cuddly cat. I have one of those -- and about the only time she wants to lap sit is during cold or rainy weather.
It may be that your kitten will become more interested in snuggling as she progresses beyond the adolescent phase and doesn't need to 'prove' herself so much. But she may not. Every cat has her own personality and some are simply less touchy-feely than others. You can encourage more contact if you allow her to make the first move. You say she never comes to you...well, does she like a particular toy or treat? Try reserving those for the times she comes to you and spends time with you. In other words, the only time she gets that favorite treat is when she sits on your lap (try sitting on the floor and luring her there, rather than forcing the issue by picking her up).
Remember---just because she doesn't want to sit on your lap doesn't mean she loves you any less. Cats show their affection in different ways--some with snuggling, others simply by sharing a game with you or sleeping near you.
MESSAGE: Hi, I really liked your book Complete Kitten Care. Any idea why my kitten is obsessed with sucking on the end of her tail? Thanks, Anne-Marie
MESSAGE: Hi Amy, I have a two-year old cat named Baby. I found him at a parking lot two years ago, and brought him back to my apartment. Since he was a street cat he is extremely shy and nervous to stranger. It's been two years but he still keeps some distance even to me. Therefore, I am afraid to release him outside even though he tries to escape the apartment. Once, I let him go outside at middle of night. I thought he would come back when he is satisfied playing around. However, he was lost while he was running away and hiding from somebody's footsteps and other noises. I looked around for him again and again, and finally, found him at someone's garage. He found a place to hide but couldn't move from there. It seemed like he was there for a while. Since then, I am so afraid to release him outside and lose him again, so keep him inside my apartment. I am wondering if he is happy with that... I feel really sorry for the poor cat. Am I doing right to him?? Does a cat need to go outside once in a while? If I do so, do you think he will be OK and come back to my place? I will appreciate your advice, please write me back. Thank you. Shiori
Thousands of modern pet cats live their entire lives inside and are quite happy and healthy. This is easier for cats who have never before experienced life on the "outside." When a cat like Baby is rescued from outdoors and has become used to that lifestyle, the cat may need some extra help to stay happy when inside. Usually I recommend that cat owners duplicate some of the outdoor attractions--on the inside of the apartment.
By that I mean give Baby lots of vertical space to climb, perch, and hide on regular furniture such as book shelves, or feline furniture like "cat trees" and window shelves. If possible, set up a bird feeder on the outside of the window so that Baby can watch and enjoy the activity, but in the safety of the apartment. MESSAGE: I have never had a Siamese cat. Do you like the disposition of the Siamese? A lady that works at the Vets office said she didn't think they made good pets. What do you think? Thanks, Wanda
Siamese as a breed tend to be talkers and have a distinctive voice. Seren talks a great deal but her voice is higher-pitched and sweeter than the typical Meezer. Siamese also are more active than, say, a Persian but not quite as athletic as an Abyssinian. Siamese are highly trainable, often play "fetch" and are very people oriented.
Of course, everybody has a right to their own opinion. The lady at the vet clinic is correct, that a Siamese probably wouldn't be a good pet - for her. That's not to say a Siamese wouldn't be the perfect (purrfect?) choice for other folks. You just have to know what you want, do your research, and match the cat's personality and foibles to your own wish list.
CURIOSITY answered by questions about MISC. TOPICS submitted by YOU!
MESSAGE: Hi Amy, My husband and I have a two-year-old female Maine Coon (with FIV). She is very affectionate and playful. My husband really wants to get a dog. I would like to get one that will be a companion for our cat and not intimidate and scare her or make her mad at us. I am reading your book Competability but I still have a couple questions. Should we be considering a puppy, a young dog, or a grown dog and should it be male or female? We thought a puppy might be easier for her to get used to size-wise. What size dog should we look for--is lab type ok or something smaller would be better? Are there particular breeds that would be better or worse than others? Your book mentioned that herding types would be intimidating. We would greatly appreciate any information you could give that would help in this process! Thanks, Karen
I'm surprised you found a copy of Competability since it's been out of print for several years. In fact, a much expanded and revised version will soon be available and will answer your questions in greater detail. PETiquette: Solving Behavior Problems in Your Multipet Household includes step by step how-to information on introductions, managing feeding and bathrooms, and choosing new pets that fit in well with your current furry family. It also walks you through training dogs NOT to chase the cat--and much more. Good luck and have fun. Your cat sounds like she landed in a wonderful home!
MESSAGE: I have a very fearful resident cat and a somewhat aggressive new dog. The cat is about 3 years old and the dog is about 9-10 months old. When we got the dog almost a month ago, the cat ran at the first sight of her, which got the dog chasing her. The cat has now remained in hiding and only comes out at night when the dog is crated. We have tried several introductions through baby gates and with the dog crated. The dog crated worked best-we kept her busy with treats and she didn't lunge and bark at the cat as much.
However, the cat is so afraid that she shows all the fearful body posturing you talk about in your book-makes herself small, won't look at the dog, growls, etc. And if I let her go, she immediately runs to hide. She has even been so scared that she has a bowel movement during close encounters with the dog. A dog trainer has suggested the possibility of a shock collar to shock the dog each time she tries to lunge or go after the cat. This is a last resort obviously, but even so, the cat does not come out of hiding for the dog to chase her anymore at all anyway.
I hate for my cat to stay in self-imposed exile and to only be nocturnal. She has a small room that is gated that the dog can't get into, but she still hides in there most of the day. Do you know of anything else we should try? How long should I leave the situation as is before intervening with any possible assistance? Kim
Another stress-buster product for cats, called Feliway, can also help a percentage of cats. Sorry, but nothing is 100% effective so it may take some trial and error, or a combination of things, to find the best bet for your particular cat. Feliway is an analogue of the cheek pheromones that cats naturally produce. When they cheek-rub objects, they leave this personalized scent behind that tells them, "I own that, chill, be calm, everything is FINE..." So using the spray product Feliway can help them calm down naturally, simply by using this scent. Feliway is available at many pet products stores or over the internet. I get mine at www.peerlesshealth.com
On the dog side, one of the best things you can do in this situation is to enroll in an obedience class with your dog. I prefer the trainers who use positive reinforcement techniques for training. The old-style training slip or "choke" collars are no longer considered the best method and many trainers or today have embraced newer concepts. In the past, dog training often consisted of placing/forcing the dog into the position or action that the trainer wanted, but today lure rewards are used to get the dog to make the choice and do it himself--rather than punishing bad behavior, modern methods reward good behavior. This can turn the dog into a creature trying to figure out how to do something good to get that next reward--they think THEY control you giving them the treats!
In particular, clicker training (based on treat rewards and a clicker "cue" to tell the dog when she does the right thing!) can be enormously successful. I've used clicker training on my cat, too. She now thinks I'm a treat machine, and comes to me and "sits" then taps my leg to let me know she "deserves" a treat.
Another great humane tool for training dogs is the Gentle Leader or Halti head halter. Rather than a slip/choke collar that tightens around the neck, these halters fit over the dog's face and direct her face and head in the direction you wish. You can find a good dog trainer familiar with these techniques through the Association of Pet Dog Trainers--their website is www.apdt.com and you can do a search for trainers in your neck of the woods.
Basically, you'll need to teach your dog that at the sight of the cat, SILENCE and a SIT gets her a cookie reward. I've seen puppies at age 9-12 weeks old learn to SIT on command within 5 minutes of their first clicker-training session! At age 9-10 months, your dog is still a pup---so she's got lots of energy that needs an outlet. All dogs (and cats) need 20 minutes aerobic exercise twice a day for good health, and your pup may need more. A tired dog is a much better behaved dog!
I do not endorse electronic training collars. They require professionals in order to be used safely and even then, I have my reservations. Dogs often learn to obey ONLY when the collar is on...and I don't know of anybody who wants their pet wearing one of these things all their life. *s* The citronella collars work on the same principle, but are more humane, IMO -- but still I'd go with clicker training and the Gentle Leader options first. Please let me know what happens with your pet family. FYI, I'm in the process of revising and expanding my book COMPETABILITY and hopefully the book will have much more up-to-date information, with better specifics that will be more helpful. CURIOSITY answered by questions about WRITING submitted by YOU!
MESSAGE: Hello Amy, I have just read your response to the mystery cat attack on the fanciers health list. I have reviewed some of your books and find them very useful. I have a small retail business and currently travel to cat shows and vend while also showing my cats. I am working on a web store that will address both cat and dog needs. I would like to carry some of your books but have found wholesale book buying to be a bit challenging. I wonder if you might have some suggestions or alternate ways that I might purchase your books for resale purposes. Thank you in advance. Sincerely, Elise
MESSAGE: Great site, Amy! I have a couple of general questions as a new writer about public relations and marketing. It looks like you've moved from being a writer to being an authority, someone who is a "package deal" within an area of interest (I think I should say areas here!). You are an author, media personality, and spokesperson who doesn't have to depend on whether or not her next book or article gets published. I know you've put in an incredible amount of work and obviously have done a good job. How did you grow into these interrelated roles? How did you plan this side of your business, and did you make use of an agent, mentor, or coach during the process?
I will definitely keep up with your schedule and if you're ever around Atlanta, I'll do my best to watch you or listen in (depending on broadcast format). And thanks so much for being open to receiving questions! Jill
Wish I could tell you my career was all brilliantly planned and executed, but the truth is I am an accidental writer with a passion for pets. My column and article writing grew from a combination of love for animals, curiosity and eagerness to learn about their care, and a weird drive to educate others. After writing articles, books were the next logical step. During the process, educating new writers also became a passion, and I learned "on the job" about marketing and p.r. by helping create and promote a new organization--CWA just celebrated its 10th birthday! (www.catwriters.org) I think much of that experience has translated into self-promotion.
Good writing is recognized and respected. When writers specialize in a specialized field, we network with others who have the same interest and focus. My "beat" was pet health, pet nutrition, pet behavior-I had interviewed researchers at all of the pet food companies, all the veterinary universities, knew many on a first-name basis, was an invited journalist reporting on their new products and research, attended scientific gatherings, even spoke at professional events upon occasion. In my case, that led to spokesperson opportunities. It also helped to have a talent for public speaking---all those years performing on stage certainly did no harm!
No, I did not hire/use a coach. No, I did not have a mentor-although today, I sponsor a CWA award that encourages writers to mentor less established colleagues. Having a mentor can offer shortcuts, if only from learning about another's experience. I sold my first sever |
